Natural perfume is not "natural perfume"
If you make a search for "natural perfume" you will find thousands of websites promoting "natural" perfumes although most of those perfumes are not 100% natural.
Why?
The definition "natural" is still not protected by law in cosmetics and perfumery. For food ingredients this is forbidden in the meantime!
You will find in promotional descriptions of scented products the misleading mention of natural sources defining olfactive effects that come not from natural stuffs itself in the product but from synthetic ingredients contained in those perfumes or cosmetics.
Because the promoters say to believe that these stuffs are identical or similar to natural stuffs they have the right to define their scented products as if they come from nature, making the impression that those products are fully natural.
This is the only way for those producers to present their synthetic coctails!
When they write about the scent of " Italian iris ", this may be the result of the only use of synthetic irones.
When they write about the nice" Indian jasmine" inside, they have in mind really synthetic jasmones! And all this is still today allowed... as a kind of poetry of possible chemical effects in the olfactive mind of the clients who buy at the end this secret synthetics cocktail mix.
They even may write about the scent of a special kind of rose inside the promoted perfume only because in the recipe they may have used any synthetics that are similar compounds to that blossom effect in nature... Yes, they can ! This is the sad reality for those who smell and then purchase before thinking.
We have opted to specify in our INCI on our products, (as if what we offer were food):
"Perfume (100% natural)"
so that our clients know that inside our "Perfume" there is only a blend of 100% natural stuffs and not a mix of different synthetics with, maybe, some natural stuffs (where, in the most of the cases the natural compounds are normally used if they are cheaper than chemicals or irreplaceable...)
Every company doing real 100% natural perfumes should do like we do if they wish... or could.
Be careful, ask for " (100% natural) " in the INCI declaration on the products itself if you want a real natural perfume.
Who can believe, rely on those companies doing "natural pefumes" or cometics but not saying it specifically in their products!??
They will always talk about the goodness of stuffs they may have inside (or in mind) but about the many synthetics that the makers use they will never loose a word about. How long?
About animal stuffs:
It is difficult to convince us about animal amber gris being "only" harvested from the beach and not from killed whales.
And what if this is not true and the " natural amber" you can smell is from synthetic , much worst: whale killing-origin???
Consequently: Be careful with amber-like and with anbra promoted perfumes!
Heretrough we ask anyone that can really prove the amber gris they offer is harvested from the beach to contact us and make us an offer. As soon as we have the first one we will publish this offer here.
From the othger side, if it were true, the use of "harvested" ambergris encourages people to search for this ingredient, mostly wahle hunters, lke it is today the case of ivory, that, allthough ivory from killed elephants it is officially gathered in African countries, the governments do not get the permission to sell it in the world market.
We do not accept or support the use of stuffs from killed (whales, musk rat, musk bull, crocodiles, etc.) or suffering (zibeth) animals. We are capable to create really astonishing perfumes avoiding animal and synthetic stuffs.
Other way to call real natural non animal containing perfumes may be also:
„ all (100% ) botanical perfume " or " botanical vegan perfume " (real natural and animal free).
But, be careful:
Again: the definition: " botanical perfume " (like "natural" ) is not protected by law, and this can be also used for any kind of perfume, even those synthetic containing ones. Only if you find "100%" or "pure" before the description botanical or natural you can be sure that you may have in your hands what you was searching for .
To finish the bad news I must also tell you that a fully synthetic composed perfume may also be called " vegan perfume " because it does not contain any animal stuffs !
Now to the new INCI and the problems that this infringes to the real natural perfumers:
INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the international obligatory standard for the content declaration of any cosmetic product, included perfumes. The INCI-standard obliges the producer or responsible distributor to write on the product or its leaflet all compounds by its scientific or Latin name. Vegetable compounds are named with their Latin name, chemicals are named with their international recognized chemical name, so that anyone in this world may understand what is inside the product. Thanks to the www now it is possible to find the meaning of all these strange names for non perfumery experts.
It has being done a very good lobby work to block aims of those who wanted that behind "Perfume" or "Fragance" it should be declared if it is 100% natural (as for food it is today) or not.
Today the only obligatory definition for ANY mix of scent stuffs in the INCI is generally: "Perfume", "Flavor" or "Fragance".
The mix of stuffs that are hidden behind the INCI´s allowed "Perfume", " Flavor " or " Fragance " come into our blood over the skin, the lungs through inhalation while breathing the air surrounding us or smelling it directly from the skin.
Due to these facts, we believe, it should be unmistakeable explained in the INCI what really the source of this secret ingredient mix is called "Perfume" or "Fragance".
More about chemicals in perfumes here.
Now to the worst news for natural perfumers:
The new (old) allergenes that must be declared in the new INCI:
The pharmacy and chemical industry has demonstrated scientifically for a couple of years ago that many natural isolated contained stuffs of lots of essential oils and their synthetic copies (natural identical) are potential allergenes.
Experts know that all these isolates are never as allergenic as the isolates if found in a complex relationship in essential oils as found in nature.
The list of those allergenes that must be declared at the INCI if they are found in a cosmetic product are today (the list may be enhanced soon):
AMYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, CINNAMYL ALCOHOL, CITRAL, EUGENOL, HYDROXYCITRONELLAL, ISOEUGENOL, AMYLCINNAMYL ALCOHOL, BENZYL SALICYLATE, CINNAMAL, COUMARIN, GERANIOL, HYDROXYISOHEXYL 3-CYCLOHEXENE CARBOXALDEHYDE, ANISE ALCOHOL, BENZYL CINNAMATE, FARNESOL, BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL, LINALOOL, BENZYL BENZOATE, CITRONELLOL, HEXYL CINNAMAL, LIMONENE, METHYL 2 -OCTYNOATE, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT, EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT
You will see that we do not declare all of those stuffs at our INCI, but a lot of them, in all of our creations.
For instance oak moos extract (Evernia Prunasti) is found only in oak moos extract. But Geraniol is found in geranium oil, rose, palmarosa, etc. Coumarin is found naturally contained in tonka beans and hew Absolue.
Citral in all agrumen oils, Cinnamyl alcohol and Cinnamal, etc. in lot of oils related with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, etc. and so on.
We see this development as an attempt to mislead people about the goodness of natural scented cosmetics and perfumes, yes, the goodness of nature.
The only one fully synthetic one in the list, not found in nature is: BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL
As Paracelsus said: Everything is medicine and poison at the same time. The dose makes the difference!
With enough money anybody can also proof that oxygen or water can be dangerous to your health…
Why haven't they done the same allergy tests with thousands of synthetic perfumes stuffs (over 5000 commercially offered stuff mixes today!) normally used in perfumery?
Simple answer: The testers produce or apply them!
Normally, most people do not have an allergic reaction to these natural stuffs.
The EU is trying now to implement new laws for tests of ALL chemicals before they are lanced to the market...
We hope to have here soon good news...
More about allergenic synthetics in perfumery: watchcrop.org
If you make a search for "natural perfume" you will find thousands of websites promoting "natural" perfumes although most of those perfumes are not 100% natural.
Why?
The definition "natural" is still not protected by law in cosmetics and perfumery. For food ingredients this is forbidden in the meantime!
You will find in promotional descriptions of scented products the misleading mention of natural sources defining olfactive effects that come not from natural stuffs itself in the product but from synthetic ingredients contained in those perfumes or cosmetics.
Because the promoters say to believe that these stuffs are identical or similar to natural stuffs they have the right to define their scented products as if they come from nature, making the impression that those products are fully natural.
This is the only way for those producers to present their synthetic coctails!
When they write about the scent of " Italian iris ", this may be the result of the only use of synthetic irones.
When they write about the nice" Indian jasmine" inside, they have in mind really synthetic jasmones! And all this is still today allowed... as a kind of poetry of possible chemical effects in the olfactive mind of the clients who buy at the end this secret synthetics cocktail mix.
They even may write about the scent of a special kind of rose inside the promoted perfume only because in the recipe they may have used any synthetics that are similar compounds to that blossom effect in nature... Yes, they can ! This is the sad reality for those who smell and then purchase before thinking.
We have opted to specify in our INCI on our products, (as if what we offer were food):
"Perfume (100% natural)"
so that our clients know that inside our "Perfume" there is only a blend of 100% natural stuffs and not a mix of different synthetics with, maybe, some natural stuffs (where, in the most of the cases the natural compounds are normally used if they are cheaper than chemicals or irreplaceable...)
Every company doing real 100% natural perfumes should do like we do if they wish... or could.
Be careful, ask for " (100% natural) " in the INCI declaration on the products itself if you want a real natural perfume.
Who can believe, rely on those companies doing "natural pefumes" or cometics but not saying it specifically in their products!??
They will always talk about the goodness of stuffs they may have inside (or in mind) but about the many synthetics that the makers use they will never loose a word about. How long?
About animal stuffs:
It is difficult to convince us about animal amber gris being "only" harvested from the beach and not from killed whales.
And what if this is not true and the " natural amber" you can smell is from synthetic , much worst: whale killing-origin???
Consequently: Be careful with amber-like and with anbra promoted perfumes!
Heretrough we ask anyone that can really prove the amber gris they offer is harvested from the beach to contact us and make us an offer. As soon as we have the first one we will publish this offer here.
From the othger side, if it were true, the use of "harvested" ambergris encourages people to search for this ingredient, mostly wahle hunters, lke it is today the case of ivory, that, allthough ivory from killed elephants it is officially gathered in African countries, the governments do not get the permission to sell it in the world market.
We do not accept or support the use of stuffs from killed (whales, musk rat, musk bull, crocodiles, etc.) or suffering (zibeth) animals. We are capable to create really astonishing perfumes avoiding animal and synthetic stuffs.
Other way to call real natural non animal containing perfumes may be also:
„ all (100% ) botanical perfume " or " botanical vegan perfume " (real natural and animal free).
But, be careful:
Again: the definition: " botanical perfume " (like "natural" ) is not protected by law, and this can be also used for any kind of perfume, even those synthetic containing ones. Only if you find "100%" or "pure" before the description botanical or natural you can be sure that you may have in your hands what you was searching for .
To finish the bad news I must also tell you that a fully synthetic composed perfume may also be called " vegan perfume " because it does not contain any animal stuffs !
Now to the new INCI and the problems that this infringes to the real natural perfumers:
INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the international obligatory standard for the content declaration of any cosmetic product, included perfumes. The INCI-standard obliges the producer or responsible distributor to write on the product or its leaflet all compounds by its scientific or Latin name. Vegetable compounds are named with their Latin name, chemicals are named with their international recognized chemical name, so that anyone in this world may understand what is inside the product. Thanks to the www now it is possible to find the meaning of all these strange names for non perfumery experts.
It has being done a very good lobby work to block aims of those who wanted that behind "Perfume" or "Fragance" it should be declared if it is 100% natural (as for food it is today) or not.
Today the only obligatory definition for ANY mix of scent stuffs in the INCI is generally: "Perfume", "Flavor" or "Fragance".
The mix of stuffs that are hidden behind the INCI´s allowed "Perfume", " Flavor " or " Fragance " come into our blood over the skin, the lungs through inhalation while breathing the air surrounding us or smelling it directly from the skin.
Due to these facts, we believe, it should be unmistakeable explained in the INCI what really the source of this secret ingredient mix is called "Perfume" or "Fragance".
More about chemicals in perfumes here.
Now to the worst news for natural perfumers:
The new (old) allergenes that must be declared in the new INCI:
The pharmacy and chemical industry has demonstrated scientifically for a couple of years ago that many natural isolated contained stuffs of lots of essential oils and their synthetic copies (natural identical) are potential allergenes.
Experts know that all these isolates are never as allergenic as the isolates if found in a complex relationship in essential oils as found in nature.
The list of those allergenes that must be declared at the INCI if they are found in a cosmetic product are today (the list may be enhanced soon):
AMYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, CINNAMYL ALCOHOL, CITRAL, EUGENOL, HYDROXYCITRONELLAL, ISOEUGENOL, AMYLCINNAMYL ALCOHOL, BENZYL SALICYLATE, CINNAMAL, COUMARIN, GERANIOL, HYDROXYISOHEXYL 3-CYCLOHEXENE CARBOXALDEHYDE, ANISE ALCOHOL, BENZYL CINNAMATE, FARNESOL, BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL, LINALOOL, BENZYL BENZOATE, CITRONELLOL, HEXYL CINNAMAL, LIMONENE, METHYL 2 -OCTYNOATE, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT, EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT
You will see that we do not declare all of those stuffs at our INCI, but a lot of them, in all of our creations.
For instance oak moos extract (Evernia Prunasti) is found only in oak moos extract. But Geraniol is found in geranium oil, rose, palmarosa, etc. Coumarin is found naturally contained in tonka beans and hew Absolue.
Citral in all agrumen oils, Cinnamyl alcohol and Cinnamal, etc. in lot of oils related with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, etc. and so on.
We see this development as an attempt to mislead people about the goodness of natural scented cosmetics and perfumes, yes, the goodness of nature.
The only one fully synthetic one in the list, not found in nature is: BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL
As Paracelsus said: Everything is medicine and poison at the same time. The dose makes the difference!
With enough money anybody can also proof that oxygen or water can be dangerous to your health…
Why haven't they done the same allergy tests with thousands of synthetic perfumes stuffs (over 5000 commercially offered stuff mixes today!) normally used in perfumery?
Simple answer: The testers produce or apply them!
Normally, most people do not have an allergic reaction to these natural stuffs.
The EU is trying now to implement new laws for tests of ALL chemicals before they are lanced to the market...
We hope to have here soon good news...
More about allergenic synthetics in perfumery: watchcrop.org
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